Mindat Mineralogy Messageboard - Mineral Photography Discussions on best techniques for mineral photography http://www.mindat.org/msgboard-13.html Thu, 26 Nov 2009 13:12:40 +0000 Phorum 5.2.8-RC1 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,150828,160522#msg-160522 Re: Canon cameras http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,150828,160522#msg-160522 Jamey Swisher Mineral Photography Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:18:44 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160521#msg-160521 Re: Needing Recommendations on Digital Camera(s) for Mineral Photography http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160521#msg-160521
Now, IQ(image quality) on the other hand, that has to do with the number of pixels in relation to the size of the sensor. A dSLR is not always the best choice either. But you are correct, in total IQ, a 10mp P&S will not be equal to a 10MP dSLR except for the Sigma DP1 or DP2 as those P&S cameras actually use dSLR sized sensors.

The megapixel game has been used too much and is always touted as a major selling point. When, in reality, for internet sized images, 3MP is plenty, heck, 3MP will even make a top notch 8x10" print! When looking, the only thing that really matters along the lines of megapixels is the pixel density. The pixel density is what will dictate the amount of total IQ a camera can produce. Now, the lens quality must also be taken into consideration as well! A 10MP Canon P&S will NOT come close to the detail and IQ a 10MP Panasonic can produce. Both have about the same pixel density, but the Panasonic uses a top end lens made & designed by Leica and the Canon uses a lower quality lens, but neither is shabby.

Also, a 5MP dSLR can easily produce a billboard sized print, and has and does all the time. A 6MP P&S from a good camera with a good lens can easily produce an 11x14" print which is the small end of the poster sizes. A good 8MP P&S with good lens can do a 16x20" that is acceptable at normal viewing distances.

Megapixels should just be ignored honestly. Do NOT fall into that sales hype bs too many retailers try to push. It is nothing but a misnomer/myth. If you must look at something, looks at pixel density instead. But honestly, as far as dSLRs go, ANY of the ones currently on the market can produce top notch shots. Some just have more features then others that can make it easier to capture the winning shot. Many of the P&S cameras on the market can do the job as well, the best for macro work being the Panasonic line up, specifically the FZ28, FZ35, or LX3 and the LZ series doesn't do too bad either for internet viewing.]]> Jamey Swisher Mineral Photography Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:15:41 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160454#msg-160454 Re: Needing Recommendations on Digital Camera(s) for Mineral Photography http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160454#msg-160454 Jesse Fisher Mineral Photography Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:54:42 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,150828,160377#msg-160377 Re: Canon cameras http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,150828,160377#msg-160377 John Wu Mineral Photography Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:48:34 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,151994,160338#msg-160338 Re: Anybody using the Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens... http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,151994,160338#msg-160338
If you really want to get crazy you can use the reverse adapter and use a reversed lens on the bellows, rofl. The DOF would more then likely be too thin to do much good though.

I find for the bellows + minerals that a three lens set works the best. 35mm, 50mm, and a 135mm. This way you have varying degrees of magnification and also varying degrees of working distance for ease of lighting. The nice thing is if you go the M42 + adapter route you can snag all three lenses in decent optics for under $150-$200. Chinon is an excellent brand to look for in the 50 or 55mm and the 135mm. You will be lucky to find a 35mm and if you do it won't be cheap, but it is well worth the cost. Also any M42 Vivitar mount lens with the first two digits of the serial number being 06, 09, 22, 28, 37, or 47 will do the job quite well.]]> Jamey Swisher Mineral Photography Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:56:16 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160260#msg-160260 Re: Needing Recommendations on Digital Camera(s) for Mineral Photography http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160260#msg-160260
I'm very, very happy with my old Canon Rebel, and am considering upgrading to the new 21 megapixel version.

I'd suggest not getting anything under 10 megapixels, whether you're just after low-res shots for the web or not. Sooner or later you will get some great shots of fabulous specimens and will be kicking yourself when you can't blow it up to poster size.

Personally, I'd never buy any form of high-end electronic gear from anywhere but a bricks and mortar store with well-trained, experienced salesmen. Call me old school, but I want an address that I can actually drive to if I have problems.

Tons and tons of good info on the web. dpreview.com is a superb source of reviews.

Basically, do a month or three of research, go with a top name brand that's been selling camera's for a long, long time, and bear in mind that with digital SLR's you're buying a camera body, and then you're buying the lenses you need, which can cost many times more than the camera body.

Lastly, I don't think you can go wrong by taking the advice of guys like Swisher.]]> Tim Jokela Jr Mineral Photography Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:17:17 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,151994,160255#msg-160255 Re: Anybody using the Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens... http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,151994,160255#msg-160255
Cheers,

T]]> Tim Jokela Jr Mineral Photography Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:01:12 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160184#msg-160184 Re: Needing Recommendations on Digital Camera(s) for Mineral Photography http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160184#msg-160184
If you have the time I would suggest you look at the first five newsletter articles I wrote on choosing a digital camera for lapidary use, from June 2009 - Oct 2009 . It is NOT camera specific, but simply goes through the things I feel you should consider before purchase. There are between 2 and 3 pages in each newsletter. (http://www.charlottegem.com/newsletters.html)

My only recommendation that is more specific is the use of a good Macro Lens, like speakers in a stereo system, your lens will determine more about the quality of your photos than any other particular camera feature. I, like Jamey, recommend a macro lens between 100 mm - 180 mm for macro work. The extra working distance between the subject (mineral/cab/etc.) being photographed and the camera provide far more opportunities to light the subject. The quality of most of the 50-60 mm macros is excellent, but you have to get too close to the subject to focus.

I wrote and photographed the book "Agates and Jaspers" and teach a beginning close-up class at William Holland Lapidary School. My WEB site (http://www.theimage.com) has some general information (not as up to date as the current photo series in the newsletter) but still useful for some historical perspective. Currently the only book on mineral and gemstone photography is by Jeff Scovil - check out his WEB site for it. (http://www.scovilphoto.com/)

I have used a variety of cameras as I did a good deal of scientific photography in my pre-retirement carrier. I have used both Canon and Nikon and frankly cannot see that much difference between them, but I believe most of the current "name-brands" can all produce great photographs, it's more a function of the photographer, learning to light the samples and some general experience. (All of which can be learned and practiced.)

Always continue learning and questioning!]]> ron gibbs Mineral Photography Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:15:58 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160180#msg-160180 Re: Needing Recommendations on Digital Camera(s) for Mineral Photography http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157130,160180#msg-160180
As mentioned, there is a lot more to taking good photos of minerals than just the camera. You will need to pay attention to lighting, reflector cards, diffusers, staging, and computer processing to optimize the image afterward. If you're just starting out with digital photography, this is a lot to learn. A suggestion would be to look through the user photo galleries here on Mindat and find people who's work you like. Most would likely be happy to share information with you about their techniques.]]> Jesse Fisher Mineral Photography Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:05:46 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159960#msg-159960 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159960#msg-159960
The first stone is a cut (faceted) piece of quartz with imbedded anatase and rutile crystals. The second two were puchased as ankangite in quartz and the smaller of the two actually is. The larger (center stone) may have ankangite in it, but the more interesting inclusion is a silver colored metallic looking crystal.

The anatase, rutile, and what appears to be the remainder of a licorice twist

Anatase (~3mm) & Rutile

This is the interesting inclusion in the second stone. These stones supposedly had a mix of ankangite and celsian, but neither mineral should look like this crystal. The thin crystals at the edges may well be ankangite. (Update - the metallic looking inclusion is celsian with an air gap around it making it look like a mirror/metallic surface. - direct from a e-mail form the seller!)

Ankangite & Celsean (~3mm)

This is from the smallest cut stone, and it appears to be a cluster of ankangite needles with another pseudo metallic cubic material to the right. Another interesting unknown in the mix.

Ankangite & ? (~1mm)

When you finally get around to the stuff you bought nearly a year ago, you actually find some very interesting things. Glad I got to do most of them done before I took off to Tucson again this year. I guess you should really take the time to examine what you have already purchased!

Purchased as stibnite clusters in a quartz gem. The larger cluster is about 3 mm in length. (Update from e-mail from sample provider - it was sold as stibnite, but has since been analyzed as Jamesonite, perhaps after stibnite.)

Jamesonite (Stibnite?)

Two different samples of dolomite in quartz. The first is a real "bolder", it's about 4mm in size by itself. The second pair is a good deal smaller, the little one impaled by the rutile crystal is just under 1mm.

Dolomite

Dolomite

Finally a hematite with rutile in quartz cabochon.

Hematite (~3mm)/rutile

Most of these samples were purchased from Marco Campos Venuti, he had a room in the Pueblo Inn (now RappaRiver Show) and had more samples of included stones than I saw anywhere else by a wide margin.

I agree the step size is finer than needed but it is the large notch on the micrometer and easy to see and quick to position on without additional lighting and higher power glasses on me!. I am still not totally happy with the results or the set up, but it's new to me and I will fine tune it as I move ahead. Still lots of room for improvement.
_________________]]> ron gibbs Mineral Photography Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:08:20 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159925#msg-159925 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159925#msg-159925 I agree that diffuse light is mandatory in most cases - unless you have a really dull subject - and solves a lot of problems, especially ghost off-focus lights coming out from everywhere.
I only think 5/1000", i.e. 0.127mm, steps for a 10mm field are a little overkill - in my saw-and-hammer experience such a fine step works well for 3-4 mm fields (my micrometer screw is a heavier, much less "clean", version of your setup, and moves by 0.01mm steps).]]> Roberto Bracco Mineral Photography Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:52:59 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159435#msg-159435 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159435#msg-159435
As far as moving verses stationary light ... You got me ... sort of.
I have proved to myself it doesn't matter.

Lets look at the fist diagram below and not be concerned for a minute about the position of the lights. We first need to agree that moving the object on the platform up toward the main objective lens is no different than moving the microscope(B] down toward the object(A). When we use the large or fine focus knob we are actually moving the entire scope body(B] up or down the base-connecting pole. We are adjusting a worm gear(C) that makes the actual travel happen. Hence only an observer looking from the outside would know if the sample got moved or the scope got moved.

Diagram 1

The only change in the system in the distance between the main capture ocular in the bottom of the scope and the subject matter (object A).

Now lets consider three different lighting scenarios:
Case 1.) light coming straight down from the axis of the viewing lens. (Some scopes actually offer an attachment that provide light through the viewing lens system.) Mine does not have this feature, but if the demo scope in the diagram did, then the lighting would not change whether the scope or the sample moved. The light being connected to the viewing axis and the direction of motion only provides a mechanism for the intensity of the reflection to change. Light falls off by 1/R2 (R squared).

Now this is true for any position of the lights you choose. Even if we keep the distance between the original light and the sample(A) fixed, the other distance (the reflected light) changes by the 1/R2 rule as that distance will change regardless of which moved.

As far as moving the light source with the sample, I did do this initially, not so much to control the various light angles, but because I wanted to use a ring light on the scope and it would typically sit around the main objective housing. So if any of you are currently using this set up then moving then focusing the microscope for multiple image taking will have the same "changing the light" effect as moving the sample.

The idea of using a ring light is to provide even 360 degree illumination and negate this effect. The light is also located as near to the center of focus as possible like the interior lens-light described above, again mitigating the effect. The little gadget I first made is pictured below. I wanted to keep the light as close to the object (sample) as possible to get maximum illumination. I used a plastic cylinder on the moving base and put the sample into the center of it The light was clamped on the outside of the cylinder and the whole unit moved up and down with the slide. Thus the lighting was effectively constant without regard to position. See next photos ...

Moving Light

I discovered that this introduced a new problem which is related to the lighting set-up I will describe below. The light being located near the sample top or an equatorial position on "some" samples produced internal shadow or (more accurately) added diffusion in the sample and provided poor viewing. This was the case in some gemstones where the internal flaw (item of interest) was surrounded by a veil or tiny bubbles.

Case 2.) Assume the light is at nearly a right angle to the object being photographed. If there is only one light source from one side or the other, then a strong shadow is produced on the opposite side. Think of this as the "sun-rise" or "sun-set" scenario. A small change in position of the object, will cast a much wider or shallower shadow with relatively little movement up or down. Thus during morning or night, in the "big" real world shadows are elongated to a high degree and seem to grow or shrink rapidly as the sun sets or rises. I submit in most microscopy photographs we try NOT to use this set up. We supply multiple light sources to open shadow areas. The only time the effect might be warranted is if we need to accentuate a very fine pattern in a sample. For example really fine etch lines is a crystal surface.

If you are trying to light a more or less clear gemstone to highlight an internal feature this lighting can backfire if the feature is within a cloud of other features. If the other features are solid, then they cast little shadows on the object of interest, or if they are translucent they will scatter the light making focus very poor.

Case 3.) light from above but not concentric with the focal axis. In most of my work I use multiple light sources to surround the object being photographed. This is done not just to reduce shadows but also to get sufficient light on the image for reasonable photography. Microscopes "eat light" in their precision and fine optics. Just like the low depth of field problem in a scope, the light passing through multiple layers of even "fine optics" continues to diffuse and remove light.

One thing which helps remove shadows and limit specular highlights is to use diffuse light. This works against the "intensity/strengthening" effect of light, but diffuse light really helps eliminate strong specular reflections where all information is lost. If you look at the second part of the first diagram there is a poor but roughly accurate light path map for a light being reflected from a crystal located below. (Yes it's an over simplified image, there are actually an infinite number of cones rising up from all positions in the sample ... that's just too hard to draw!)

Reflect light never comes from a true point source, and unless the reflected surface is nearly a perfect mirror, it diffuses the reflection itself. The reflected light from a typical light source (even a halogen fiber optic) produces cones of reflection and they spread-out as they travel away from the object. Only those outer most parts of each cone that actually strike the object lens (C1 and C2 in diagram) can be bent back and used to construct the image. Any falling outside the objective lens continue passing on to oblivion as far as the image is concerned. When we change the distance between the objective and the object being photographed we change the "field of view" of the final image. Hence some cones exit in the lower C1 position that will miss entirely in the higher C2 position.

SImple test, put a mm scale under the scope in place of the sample. Set the focus on the scope then adjust the magnification so that the outside edges to two mm markers just appear touching the edge of the field of view. Now move the fine focus knob two full revolutions in either direction. The two markers that were on the edge of the field of view will now be inside or outside the field. This means that items in the original field have either grown or shrunk slightly. Hence light angles hitting portions of them have change in the image.

Or ... look at the first and last photo in a deep stack of images, the outside edge cannot line up as the one taken from one end of focus are not present in the other. The good news for most of us is that much of the software we use will reposition the images in the stack or provide a means for us to do it.

From my (and I admit) limited experience thus far in stacking, if the lighting for the microscope is diffuse and relatively even, this will easily negate the changes in direction from stationary light source and the moving sample. (Basically one of the prime ideas in using a ring light.) Hence after doing about a couple dozen sets of images I have mostly stopped using the moving ring light, I see no major advantage. The only problem I do see is that when I poorly light a subject the specular reflections tend to be slightly larger than they should be. They appear to migrate slightly and broaden.

I personally believe we often spend a way too much time worrying about the "perfect system", there is no such thing. Everything we do to enhance one thing will always negatively effect another. Physics provides us with the saying ... there is no free lunch! Find a system that works for you and turn out results. I think it great to read about what others are doing as it aids us in our own learning and helps us see things in a different way. I enjoy seeing the gadgets and gizmos other use to solve problems.]]> ron gibbs Mineral Photography Mon, 09 Nov 2009 04:38:53 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159341#msg-159341 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159341#msg-159341 Jim Hall Mineral Photography Sun, 08 Nov 2009 15:09:44 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159336#msg-159336 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159336#msg-159336 Dominik Schläfli Mineral Photography Sun, 08 Nov 2009 14:53:33 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159274#msg-159274 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159274#msg-159274 ron gibbs Mineral Photography Sun, 08 Nov 2009 02:08:57 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159251#msg-159251 Re: Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159251#msg-159251 Howard Messing Mineral Photography Sat, 07 Nov 2009 23:56:44 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159193#msg-159193 Gizmo for stacking - new scope http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,159193,159193#msg-159193
I purchased Helicon Focus for increasing depth of field a few of months ago and wanted to use it with the new system. I shot several images but was not happy with the test results. I decide the problem was controlling the overlap factor between images. For those who don't know about Helicon Focus it works by taking a series of images each with a slightly different focus point on the sample. The software then picks the sharp part of each photo and applies them to a single image. The result is vastly increased depth of field.

I needed to control the positioning of the sample at even increments with good control down to small fractions of an inch. I decided to built a gadget to accomplish this. I got a milling attachment from Taig Tools. It is a micro adjuster connected to a small vise mechanism. Taig Tools

I attached the base of the unit to a piece of flat polycarbonate and made a small polycarbonate shelf for the vise to hold. When the knob is rotated the shelf can be moved in a controlled fashion. The adjustment control is calibrated in thousandths of an inch. A photograph of the gadget is shown below with a small mineral sample of vanadinite. Photo below ...

Device

The gadget is placed under the lens of the microscope and focus is first achieved at the highest point on the sample using the focus knob on the scope. A photograph is taken, the knob on the gadget is then adjusted to raise the sample a fixed amount. In the example below I used 5/1000 of inch for each increment. I ended up shooting about 50 images as the sample moved through all of the focus planes. Here is the unit positioned under the scope.

Device in place

This first image shows the first photograph recorded before the set of images were enhanced with Helicon Focus. Notice the top edge of one crystal is in focus the remainder of the image is well out of focus. The width of the entire image is 10 mm.

First image in stack

The next image was created using the stack of photos in Helicon Focus. It is very apparent that the image now shows good focus throughout the range. The gadget works well in controlling the sample's rise through the various focal planes.

Stack Results

As for my set up I have a Macintosh so there are limited software programs to do the stacking. I have no clear favorite between the two packages with the best interface (in my opinion), I simply purchased Helicon before I ever found Zerene. I can't afford to by them all!

Here is a short animated movie I made with Cinema4D showing the device in use. It's not 100% complete but close enough for now. I will use it in some training slides next year. It giveS a reasonable depiction of the new scope set up.

Short Movie

(You will need Quicktime to run it)]]> ron gibbs Mineral Photography Sat, 07 Nov 2009 16:59:16 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158253#msg-158253 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158253#msg-158253 Jamey Swisher Mineral Photography Sat, 31 Oct 2009 18:13:20 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158216#msg-158216 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158216#msg-158216 Ben Kirchner Mineral Photography Sat, 31 Oct 2009 05:21:20 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,155979,158179#msg-158179 Re: Looking for a good, older Digital Camera for Macro shots. http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,155979,158179#msg-158179
Glad you found something that worked for you. I did some quick research on the Samsung, and it is advertised to have a good macro function. Not sure why it didn't work for you. Lots of factors to consider, including vibration. You need to be on a solid floor, concrete if possible, not near a highway or subway line, and also to not move while the camera is taking the photo. Focus with the Samsung may have been some of the problem. The way compacts focus is different from DSLRs, and not as accurate.

I have gotten excellent photos with my coolpix 4500 and coolpix 8400. They are super cameras at macro lengths and since you can shoot in Aperture Priority it is possible to get maximum depth of field, which reduces blur outside the plane of focus. The WB Pre setting helps get colors accurate.

I am now using a D70s DSLR with a Nikkor 105mm macro lens. Even used this was ~$900 out of my pocket, but in excellent shape. I have been very happy with the photos I have taken with it.]]> Stephen C. Blyskal Mineral Photography Fri, 30 Oct 2009 17:25:55 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,158135,158142#msg-158142 Re: 1st pics of AmethystH http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,158135,158142#msg-158142 Jelmer Hoeksma Mineral Photography Fri, 30 Oct 2009 12:06:14 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,158135,158135#msg-158135 1st pics of AmethystH http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,158135,158135#msg-158135





]]> Ryan Chornick Mineral Photography Fri, 30 Oct 2009 05:48:23 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158084#msg-158084 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158084#msg-158084 Jamey Swisher Mineral Photography Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:26:11 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158015#msg-158015 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,158015#msg-158015
Jamey, yeah, it has to be tied down. The eyepiece isn't extended very far, and the adapter doesn't have much room to grip on the eyepiece side - thus, the weight of it pulls it down. It stays in place that way, but it isn't tight, and the camera is not in the proper place for pictures. (It only covers barely the top 1/4 of the eyepiece.) But tying it down holds it in place perfectly tight. I don't know - I'd like to have someone experienced take a look at it. Maybe if I put up a picture you might be able to see if I'm doing something wrong? It works like this but I wish I didn't have to tie it down.

Here's my newest pic - not really usable, but it's getting there. 10-photo stack of the Chalcotrichite.

[attachment 18234 Stackedchalco3.jpg]]]> Ben Kirchner Mineral Photography Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:45:29 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157965#msg-157965 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157965#msg-157965 Jamey Swisher Mineral Photography Wed, 28 Oct 2009 17:11:25 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157945#msg-157945 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157945#msg-157945
Very cool looking. :)-D]]> Bri Dragonne Mineral Photography Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:05:30 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,155979,157942#msg-157942 Re: Looking for a good, older Digital Camera for Macro shots. http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,155979,157942#msg-157942
I hadn't checked this thread for a while.

I ended up getting the Fuji Finepix E500.

It has a super-macro function that works extremely well.

[attachment 18227 h.jpg]

Attached is a photo using the new camera :)

(Cuprian Smithsonite on Willemite from the Tsumeb).]]> Bri Dragonne Mineral Photography Wed, 28 Oct 2009 14:39:45 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157919#msg-157919 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157919#msg-157919
There is a Combine Z group on Yahoo Groups. Yahoo Groups This should get you to the site

Doug]]> Douglas Merson Mineral Photography Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:28:29 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157912#msg-157912 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157912#msg-157912
I completely agree that it's a whole new world of opportunities! I am really pleased with this picture, but as I know now, they don't all just turn out perfectly every time! It's a lot of work, and a lot of fun. Vita, I'm impressed with your progress - and I'm really glad to have all the inspiration from you and others. Bill, my adapter is funky too - to put it nicely. I actually have to tape it or tie it down with a string.. Kinda tacky, and it's annoying to undo it every time I want to just use the scope. Just adds to the work. Hopefully you'll fix yours!

Steve I'm using a Canon Powershot A720IS and a Chinese-made scope also. The scope zooms from 7x to 112.5x (up to 45x with 10x and the rest with 25x eyepieces.) I'm going to switch over to the 10x eyepieces for the future unless I absolutely need the high-zoom; they're much better, allow much more light and FOV. So basically that's it; the camera, adapter, scope and Combine-Z. I am by no means a professional or knowledgeable photographer - for the longest time I only used the automatic settings. I would love to have some nicer equipment, but my funding is VERY tight, to say the least; what extra money I do have, I of course prefer specimens, since I can't even take any pictures at all without those!

But yeah, I would love to discuss mineral photography and Combine-Z further with anyone.. I wonder, are there any e-mail groups or message boards for this? I don't really think the purpose of this one (here on mindat) is to post every picture I generate and ask for improvements, but that would probably help me quite a lot if I found a place to do that. Or if anyone wants to help by being my mentor, that would be great too! Send me a PM if you want to talk more!

Thanks for the kind words and inspiration everyone, I do appreciate it.]]> Ben Kirchner Mineral Photography Wed, 28 Oct 2009 02:32:18 +0000 http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157904#msg-157904 Re: My First Stacked Picture!!! http://www.mindat.org/forum.php?read,13,157826,157904#msg-157904
What equipment are you using? I currently use a Nikon Coolpix 4500 mated to the right ocular of my Chinese-made National 10-40x zoom 'scope, using a Scopetronix MaxView lens system and a 37-28 mm T-ring. Results are decent when I use Combine ZP stacking software. I just purchased a Nikon Coolpix P6000 and I need a 52mm-37mm ring to use the Scopetronix lens system with the new camera.

Nice image! It looks like the stacked image is zoomed a bit further out than the unprocessed one.

Steve Stuart]]> Steve Stuart Mineral Photography Tue, 27 Oct 2009 23:16:03 +0000