An excellent choice, and prolly the best two choices, are the Panasonic FZ28 or LX3. Both offer full controls and manual focusing as well as advanced optics and white balance controls. They are rated the #1 compact and superzoom cameras on the market currently.
If a dSLR is your choice, the best possible one to go with is the Sigma SD14. First off there will be no dust issues as the cut pass filter is external and user removable and therefore easily to clean by simply using a hurricane blower. Secondly because of the FoveonX3 sensor used in the camera. The FoveonX3 sensor is the ONLY sensor on the market currently that will capture true and accurate colors because it captures RGB, whereas Bayer based sensor cameras(Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc.) actually interpolate(make up, guess) the other two colors. Each photosite(think pixel) on a FoveonX3 sensor captures RGB, each photosite on a Bayer sensor only captures on of the RGB colors and then uses the surrounding pixels to interpolate(guess, make up, create out of nothing) the other two colors it did not capture, therefore leading to inaccurate colors. This is the main reason reds and any shade/variation of red will not capture properly using a Bayer based sensor. The output of the SD14 is equal to and exceeding that of a full frame camera like the Canon 5D.
I have owned Canon and full array of L glass to accompany it and a few years ago I sold it all and switched to Pentax and Sigma and Panasonic and couldn't be happier and my images are far better then they ever were with Canon. In fact, even though I have about $10K worth of macro equipment and microscope attachments for my dSLRs I seldom use them, I use the Panasonic FZ8K(predecessor of the FZ28) instead. I only use the dSLRs when I am doing images that need to go into large sized prints or ads larger then 1/4 page. Fort small prints, small ads, internet images I solely use the FZ8 by Panasonic. If you use the FZ28 in super macro mode + copy stand + Raynox MSN-202 you can achieve microscope magnifications without ever using the microscope!
This was done with the Raynox setup + FZ8K and is a shot of inclusions inside a 5 or 6mm round Spessartite garnet:
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Another option is to simply snag a digiscoping adapter(the simple one piece deals not the big fancy multiple piece ones) and use any smaller compact camera on it. The following were done with my scope + digiscoping adapter + cheapo Sony DSC-S750:
Inclusions in a garnet:
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Growth tubes in tourmaline:
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Uranopyrocholore crystals in a sapphire giving an almost diagnostic origin of Pailin region as well as showing it has been heat treated:
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Silk inclusions inside garnet:
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Herkimer diamond crystal inside of a larger Herkimer and the small microscopic crystal even has its own inclusion, lol, taken with darkfield lighting:
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The above were done with scope lighting and no external source. I didn't have my dual pipe fiber optics at the time. A better match up with the digiscoping attachment would be a Panasonic FX series camera IMHO though, but I got the Sony for $70 brand new so I took the deal, lol.
The benefits of the FZ28/FZ35 + Raynox though over the rest are the increased control over depth of field(DOF), enhanced manual focus mode, full RAW capabilities, tele macro mode, Leica designed and built optics(lens) that out classes anything in the P&S style cameras and would cost around $1500-$2500+ and take 3 separate lenses to cover the same range in a dSLR, full mechanical image stabilization that works best in its class, very good color reproduction and increased white balance controls, best white balance in its class which of course yields better image quality(IQ) and colors, all the controls a dSLR offer but in an all-in-one compact solution, lightweight, has easy to use modes that still perform superbly but yet offers indepth and full manual controls for the experienced user, etc. Not to mention the video mode is outstanding!!
For a dSLR I would go with the Sigma SD14 if you have photographic experience or are willing to learn, because the camera has no auto features and is NOT designed for beginners, but rather solely designed around professionals and has a learning curve due to this. If you have little experience I would then instead go with either the Pentax K-7 or if you have a budget the Pentax K-x or K-m/K2000, either one will do the job just fine.
For attaching to the scope your best choice is the Pentax adapter(or the knock offs) and if a non-Pentax camera get the M42 screw mount version and the proper M42 screw mount adapter for your camera.
Now, none of these are needed for the scope, but relevant for use without the scope:
For macro lenses, the following in order from best:
1. Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro(best macro lens on the market)
2. Tokina 100mm f/2.8 Macro
3. Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro
4. Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG macro*(too short imho for proper lighting without spending a fortune on special lights)
5. Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro
6. Any of the OEM macros(only last due to price/performance ratio not being as good as the above lenses)
7. If on a serious budget, the Vivitar/Phoenix/Cosina 105mm f/3.5 Macro lens is your best bet, cheap toy like build quality, but optics are phenomenal for the price!
Optimally a bellow setup would be the choice, but they are extremely expensive. Extension tubes would be a must though and are very inexpensive.
