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how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!

Posted by Fira Shay  
how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 01, 2008 04:06AM
Hello everyone!

I admit I am not a gemstone expert but I can in most cases tell by looking, what exactly I am looking at. I have watched many jewelry/gemstone home-shopping channels. One of them is JTV. I watched it for almost two months. I have seen them sell synthetic Alexandrite, which I'm not interested in even if it were real because I know this stone is said to posess a very dark aura. It's been labeled as the "gem of widows" meaning that if I was to own it I'd likely lose a husband or never get married at all. Some supersticious crap, which I'm sure doesn't matter to gemologists. But just in case, I stay as far away from it as possible.
Anyway it is interesting to hear presenters go on and on about this stone from an educational point. But one thing that really got me thinking is what one presenter stated about these synthetic gems. Acording to him if you take it to a gemologist, and have the stone tested, the results will be that this is Alexandrite...not a synthetic. So, they are practically claiming that as long as the only person who knows that it didn't come from the ground is you, you can sell it as a natural stone and NO ONE will be able to tell the difference.
HOW ON EARTH do you tell that it's a synthetic then? If all the properties are EXACTLY the same, even under close and extensive examinations, what makes it different from the real? Is there something they are just not mentioning? Does it really test out to be a natural Alexandrite gemstone?

And another question I have is about the gemstone jewelry sold on Gems TV, another jewelry shopping network. They claim that all of their gemstones are natural but I've been reading some nasty comments online from UK customers (where this network originally started) some claming that their gemstones tested out to be synthetic. And once tested, the customers weren't able to return because the third party, a gemologist, got involved. Which implies that a gemologist may have switched the stone while examining it, and said it was fake or something along those lines. And again, I ask myself, how can I tell if the gemstones are real or not? Can anyone really tell a difference between a good synthetic and the real deal? And how do I know if the ring with a ruby I bought (which appears genuine to me just not of best quality) has a real ruby?

In fact it doesn't matter where I go to buy my jewelry, I wouldn't know a way of telling. I could walk into Bvlgary and walk out with a synthetic gemstone ring, having paid thousands of dollars for it, then take it to a gemologist or an appraiser and if it tests genuine I'd be satisfied. And it's supposed to test as genuine according to JTV presenters.

I am SOOOOO confused now! I don't think I believe in gemstones being genuine anymore, unless I am the one who mines them straight out of the earth, cuts them, and sets them in jewelry myself.

Is everything sold on the market today, labeled as "genuine", good fakes/lab grown synthetics? And the ones labled as "fake" just bad lab experiments which didn't turn out right and don't imitate the stones enough?

Any thoughts and comments will be appreciated.
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 01, 2008 09:36AM
I think I'd just answered my own question. I'd been breaking my head about this for a very long time now. "If the gemstone sold by someone like JTV is natural, why does it cost so much less then the one sold by someone like let's say, Dior?" I now know the exact answer to that question.

I recently bought a 3 carat emerald that cost me $300.00 per carat. It was advertised as natural "comming from the earth" but if it honestly were, I would have gone broke trying to pay for it. It would have been worth ten times more. The reason?

It's more then likely synthetic, lab created. Sure it has the exact physical and visual properties and will test exactly as an Emerald until they find the better equipment to distinguish a man made clone from the one that came from the ground, but for now it's an Emerald. The thing to keep in mind however, the more of them get created, the lesser the value will be years from now where as the one that comes from the ground will continue to go up in price.

What I don't understand however is how these home shopping tv networks even dare advertise it as comming from the earth and keep telling tales of mining these stones when the only mines they use is a lab around the corner. The price of the stone does go well with the prices for lab created, synthetics, so why put on a show? Just tell people straight out "these stones are lab created which doesn't make them worse then natural but does make them less expensive. Not like we charge a lot for them anyway, just the price of a true synthetic." It would make everything much more clear and people could make a well informed decision!

I have found this article online and I'll post a link if you want to read about lab created, synthetic diamonds. Here is where JTV and all those others come in. Are any of their diamonds actually formed in nature? OH PLEASE!!! If they were, they'd cost thousands upon thousands even for the smallest insignificant specks! In fact any "gemstone" you see selling for 10% or less of what it would cost, is 99% of times a synthetic, lab created stone. If it weren't you wouldn't be able to afford it.

[www.wired.com]

I used to be facinated by a gemstone world now I am just disapointed and disgusted because of mislabling and lies. Someone needs to start telling the truth.

Would I still buy a 3 carat Emerald if I knew that it was an exact clone to a nature's Emerald only I wouldn't be able to afford the one from nature and here I was getting quite a deal? I probably still would but at least I'd know right away that it was not a nature's creation. Which means that nothing's rare about it.

Which brings me to storngly question the nature of Tanzanite now. Maybe the Tiffany's really did find 100 or so pieces of Tanzanite in the earth originally and priced it accordingly but what if the Tanzanite that all these companies sell nowdays, is actually produced around the corner in a lab? Why am I paying a $1,000 per carat for something that was likely grown in a lab?
And I doubt that Tanzania would to this day be such a poor country if their earth was stuffed with all these natural, rare and exotic gemstones.

So, it's all a myth. Real gemstones are a thing of the past. If you're lucky enough to inherit a piece of jewelry with gemstones from your great grandmother, which has been in the family for ages, then and only then, do you have the real, exotic and priceless gemstone peice. Back in those days, they didn't have the technology to create synthetics.

Having said all that, please be careful with your money. Invest wisely.
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 01, 2008 03:05PM
Dear Fira;
Your guidelines, under regular circumstances of the average buyer, are good; but, if you go to a show, you'll find that the REAL stones ARE only a pitance, in comparison to the jewelry stores, which would make you think ALL the stones are fake, which they aren't! You'll find MUCH better quality & better SERVICE at shows than ANY "kiss-your-butt-to-make-a-sale" store will do, which tends to be "soothing" more than truly informative. You should hear the carp I hear, when I'm in the mood to have fun, at their expense.
Next, why would you WANT to buy something from people who refuse to allow an appraisal? Using the same excuse for refusing a return, over & over again? Unless they can PROVE a stone was switched, (underline this) 20 TIMES IN A ROW, they MUST take it back; the goods are sold under fraudulent grounds & ANY district attorney would LOVE such a case! The JTV would fall over BACKWARDS to settle, just to kill possible bad PR, which this case would surely bring.
Hope this helps.
Your friend, Steve
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 01, 2008 04:25PM
Most the time, natural stones are identified by having some inclusions. Even if they are microscopic. Most stones are considered VSS if they have no inclusions under 10X magnification. Try using 100X to look for inclusions if the stone is clean at 10X. This isn't a sure thing. They have begun making lab created stones with inclusions to appear like they are the real thing. I have seen more and more glass "stones" on ebay lately. They sell them as topaz, beryl, ect. when actually it is colored glass cut into a stone. Glass has a hardness of 5.5 - 6.5. These people get away with this because most people do not want to scratch their stones. Some things that will scratch glass are a sharp piece of amethyst or schorl. Since the stone you bought was labeled emerald, I'd first check it for inclusions under a high powered lens. If you see no inclusions, my guess would be lab created. I doubt they would be selling glass, but you can also try the scratch test with a piece of amethyst. If it scratches, it is not beryl at all. Amethyst cannot scratch beryl (emerald).
Steven Thomas
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 04, 2008 01:54PM
Hi, I hear what all of you are saying,there are a lot of disreputable gem dealers out there.Lets face it these are the ones in it just to make a quick buck and fly by night. Once someone has studied gemstones for a while and get to know what inclusions are in what stone,most of which 40x microscope can reveal.Take Emerald or (Beryl) this is classed as a type 3 gemstone ,meaning what the inclusions are made up of or how they are formed in natural crystal. My self I have been studing gemstones and minerals for 8 years,and no I'm not a gemologist yet ,rather a student. First lets speak of hardness, there is a scale used called the Mohs scale of hardness.This numericaly ranges fron #1 to 10.#1 is talc the mineral used in powder years ago and 10 being Diamond. Now to be breif,glass has inclusions when it's heated but they are very different than the inclusions found in Emerald.Synthetics have been around for a long time,and some of them now have very impressive inclusions that are Man made,but are not exactly like the true inclusions found in mined faceted material.If you buy an ermerald that with the naked eye you cannot see any imperfections you may have bought whats called "flux fusion" or synthetic.Now not to be devils advocate synthetics are formed in big furnaces sometimes with high pressure and electricity,but they have the same chemical composition as natural material, one was formed in the earth and the other in the furnace,which will be almost near inclusion free- the one from the mine will be included.Now as price goes I peronally have paid 150.00 to 300.00 /carat for natural mined emeralds. Many gemstone prices are subject to supply and demand. The best advice I could give is possibly take a purchased stone to be evaluated by a few Gemologists until you find one that you are comfortable with. I would never buy anything without a return policy or a GIA (Gemological Institute of America Appraisal and certification).If someone sells you a stone that is synthetic and writes it up as mined and natural,that's a big time fraudulent transaction.Take photos if you can or find someone who can take microscopic photos of your stone,I do it all the time,then when you get it back. Again if I was spending big bucks on a stone ,I would have them do this certification.
One more note there are a lot of books available ,I have spent quite a lot of cash on mine, many are cheap but with accurate photo's and information. to learn these things,there worth it if this is a hobby or business someone wishes to persue, I sincerely hope this may shed some light on the confusion,If I can help send me an E-mail.
Ps. I can always send sa some photos of inclusions in any stone for you compiled from a da base of these inclusions in natural and synthetic.Steve
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 04, 2008 03:58PM
Fira,
As long as there have been objects of desire, there have been those who were willing counterfeit said objects. In the gemstone world, you have two types of artificial stones--simulants, which are not even the same mineral as the stone they imitate--and synthetics, which are at least chemically the same mineral, but man-made. Actually, the world of simulants and synthetics is fascinating in its own right, but most people want a "natural" gemstone. Even here, you run into gemstones that have been "treated" to improve their appearance: Tourmalines, imperial topaz, sapphires and many other gems are heated are routinely heated; some sapphires have light, small elements like beryllium diffused into their crystalline structure to give beautiful colors; topaz is often irradiated; emeralds often are treated with resins or fillers to hide cracks and so on.
All I can say is that all of these treatments leave marks and can be detected by very good, knowledgeable gemologists--or by you if you have sufficient knowledge, familiarity with gems and their treatment and at least some gemological instruments. Likewise, natural gems can almost always be distinguished from simulants and synthetics--usually by looking at their microscopic inclusions. Gobelin had this down to an art, literally. He had a wonderful book of photographs of gemstone inclusions that was a work of art in and of itself.

What it all comes down to is that either you need to buy from a knowledgeable and trusted source or you yourself need to become knowledgeable. I have often noticed that as soon as I start asking questions, the frauds start to steer clear of me. And yes, sometimes you will get taken. Learn from it and don't make the same mistake twice. Gemstones represent an amazing world of beauty. Don't let yourself be put off by the bad apples. Just learn to protect yourself--and this website is a good place to start learning.
I have a pear shaped necklace my husband bought me back in 1964 while he was in the military in Viet Nam, I still don't know if it's real and affraid to leave it with a jeweler for at least it is precios to me, how could we tell if it's fake?
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
February 24, 2008 07:19AM
First of all, I can assure you that there is plenty of natural stone out there. Miners are still finding them and natural material is still finding its way into the market. A lot of very good points made, and many of the fears are justified. But difficulty in separating legitimate from fake aside, there is one other point to mention. Real stones have a pedigree. The retailer got it from a wholesaler, the wholesaler from the cutter, and the cutter from the miner. If the retailer takes pride in his business, and is interested in the material he sells, they will know who cut the stone, as well as where it came from. Someone interested in turning a quick profit will know nothing about the stone itself. A few simple questions should weed these characters out, and you don't have to do business with them.

Another tact is to buy material direct from the miner, (which is possible in many places in the world.) I happen to be in San Diego, which is close to some of the most productive tourmaline, beryl, kunzite, and gem garnet producing areas in the world. There are a number of people that the miners can recommend to cut your stone, and it makes the ownership of a gem so much more interesting when you know exactly where it came from.

And although I hesitate to cut some of these beautiful natural stones, I did have a 3.5 carat rubellite cut and mounted for my wife.

P.S. Another thought on this subject. When people are in a hurry to make money, they make mistakes. One of the most common mistakes is a bad cutting job, which manifests itself with facets of different sizes and uneven brilliance. I've seen natural aquamarine displayed on a cruise (naturally I took my loupe with me, and you should have seen the people crowd around when I took it out to look at these stones) which was so badly cut, that I couldn't recommend the stones to anyone.

Contrary to being disappointed, I find this aspect of human nature to add a fascinating complication to the challenge of finding a great stone. Do not despair!
Claire Scheepers
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
March 11, 2008 10:07AM
Hi there. -I am an accredited jewelry professional (GIA) with a degree in Geology and mineralogy and have been doing research on (and selling) gemstones from Tanzania for several years. Just in the last stages of completing my Graduate Gemologist Diploma. - One CAN distinguish between natural and synthetic stones - even diamonds. The way in which synthetic stones are "grown" is different and there are microscopic differences that any good gemologist should be able to see. - Laboratory grown stones are worth a fraction of natural gems, but the microscope will reveal the difference!
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
March 19, 2008 12:22PM
End run, get a reputable appraiser {FGA or GG/GIA] to test any stone or stones in jewellery or out, that you need confirmation on. The industry is vainly trying its best to keep up with all the treatments on Natural stones, let alone the synthetics that are grown in pressure bombs that have 3 phase inclusions. Testing is the answer, believe me. Don't let yourself worry unnecessarily when a reasonable investment in a good appraiser with up to date equipment and training will give you relief and confidence in your purchases.
Could a ring from the 1950's be lab created?
avatar Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
April 19, 2008 11:44PM
us    
It depends on the stone, diamond wouldn't be, sapphire and ruby could be.
When did they start lab creating alexandrites?
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
June 15, 2008 03:52AM
Dianna, I believe that the hydrothermal alexandrites date from the 70s. However, there were synthetic corundum simulants with color change (albeit different from that of good alexandrite) going way back--I think to the 40s or even the 30s.
Re: how to tell if a gemstone is synthetic? I am so confused!
July 10, 2008 08:13PM
Ray Hill Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> End run, get a reputable appraiser {FGA or GG/GIA]
> to test any stone or stones in jewellery or out,
> that you need confirmation on. The industry is
> vainly trying its best to keep up with all the
> treatments on Natural stones, let alone the
> synthetics that are grown in pressure bombs that
> have 3 phase inclusions. Testing is the answer,
> believe me. Don't let yourself worry unnecessarily
> when a reasonable investment in a good appraiser
> with up to date equipment and training will give
> you relief and confidence in your purchases.


GIA does not appraise diamonds they only grade them.
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