Learning Center What is a mineral?The most common minerals on earth Information for Educators Mindat Articles The Elements The Rock H. Currier Digital Library Geologic Time

Minerals by Properties Minerals by Chemistry Advanced Locality Search Random Mineral Random Locality Search by minID Localities Near Me Search Articles Search Glossary More Search Options

The Mindat Manual Add a New Photo Rate Photos Locality Edit Report Coordinate Completion Report Add Glossary Item

Mining Companies Statistics Users Mineral Museums Clubs & Organizations Mineral Shows & Events The Mindat Directory Device Settings The Mineral Quiz

Photo Search Photo Galleries Search by Color New Photos Today New Photos Yesterday Members' Photo Galleries Past Photo of the Day Gallery Photography

Discussions

💬 Home 🔎 Search 📅 Latest

╳Discussions

💬 Home 🔎 Search 📅 Latest

Groups

Recent Images in Discussions

Techniques for CollectorsRemoving Label Adhesive from Acrylic Boxes...

31st Dec 2011 12:46 UTCSteve Sorrell Expert

Some time back in a discussion on labels in this Micromount Forum, I posed a question about removing label adhesive from acrylic boxes. This is something that I have had problems with for a long time, particularly with wanting to reuse boxes from an old collection that had suffered from this.

A number of options were put forward, none of which worked for me. I had tried hot soapy water, eucalyptus oil, orange-based oil, mineral turps, you name it.

I read a post from Tim Jokela Jr in another forum yesterday about removing price tag residue from arcylic stands. Tim proposed a bit of skin/hair oil, or light lubricant.

I grabbed some virgin olive oil and tried it on a range of different boxes, and it works a treat. So I thought it would be worthwhile posting as a specific topic.

Now all I have to do is find the time to clean up all the old ones that I have.

Thanks Tim!

31st Dec 2011 14:07 UTCTimothy Greenland

I have had success with natural plant based turpentine - NOT the mineral substitute, which is usually mostly benzene. I imbibe a bit of clean cloth or kitchen wipe tissue with a little turps and wipe gently for the minimum time to remove the stickum. One can get white clouding with too prolonged treatment. I usually rinse with soapy water straight away. Incidentally, this is also useful for removing price tag residues from many shop-bought plastic (or other) items...

Cheers

Tim

31st Dec 2011 14:23 UTCJohn A. Jaszczak Expert

I have tried John Betts' recommendation of Weiman Wax Away. It works very well on old adhesive as well

as removing old oily mounting tac. It seems to be a light petroleum distilate, but doesn't say what it is on the bottle; however,

it is rather mild to pleasant smelling. So far it also has not etched any of the plastic boxes I've cleaned with it.

31st Dec 2011 15:06 UTCDonald Peck

I have had good luck with mineral spirits (paint thinner).

31st Dec 2011 15:18 UTCMichael B. Moore

try WD-40. spray label, gently scrap away paper label, spray again, then just wipe away adhesive with rag or paper towel. works for me

31st Dec 2011 16:22 UTCPaul Brandes 🌟 Manager

I have found that Goo Gone works very well after I remove as much of the label off as possible. It has the same adhesive removing ability as WD-40, but leaves a rather pleasant citrus odour.

31st Dec 2011 16:40 UTCColin Robinson

Thanks for that Steve. I had a pile of acrylic box tops which were unusable due to label adhesive so I gave them a quick rub with olive oil on a soft cloth and they're as good as new.

1st Jan 2012 00:05 UTCSteve Sorrell Expert

No problem Colin. It's by far the best solution that I have found. Now I have to go and get my own bottle of olive oil, otherwise the boss won't be so happy!

Regards

Steve

1st Jan 2012 09:54 UTCRolf Brandt

Hi all,

Another tip on this subject. Once in France I bought labels which do not leave a residue behind, even after years of sticking it to plastic boxes. I never found them somewhere else. Any tips from our French members? Regards Rolf

2nd Jan 2012 17:54 UTCRon Layton

I use Avery 5424 labels and they don't stick as tightly as the older ones. I have used naphtha (Coleman camp fuel) on some micro box's that most of the label has been removed from. There was no damage or cloudiness to the box's when I was done. I've done this to both euro box's and the hinged micro box's that David Shannon used to sell. The only thing with naphtha is the extreme flammability and the smell. Best done outside using a very minor amount at a time. I wipe the label area with a paper towel soaked in naphtha and then a dry clean paper towel to remove any residue. This is also known as spirits of naphtha or naphthalene.

18th May 2012 13:39 UTCLuca Baralis Expert

Well, I've tried as proposed by Steve Sorrel and it works on the most old label, however I used a less noble mais oil....

3rd Sep 2012 02:25 UTCClifford Trebilcock

Hi Steve,

I have used and re-used hundreds of acrylic boxes over the years and happened to stumble onto an odd material that seems to work well for removing remains of adhesive and glue from acrylic boxes. Just a tiny bit of peanut butter on a bit of paper towel. Rub with your finger tip,or finger nail if really stubborn adhesive. then wipe with clean bit of paper towel to finish. Also seems to improve surface luster of boxes to like new. Sounds crazy,but give it a try sometime. Poor man's cleaner.Cheers!

Cliff

3rd Sep 2012 05:00 UTCJake Harper Expert

I have used Alcohol successfully for years - the adhesive breaks down quick and the boxes are sterilized at the same time.

3rd Sep 2012 13:46 UTCLuca Baralis Expert

I suppose there are a variety of different glues: in my experience alcohol (commercial methyl) doesn't work at all, oil works often, but not always and then you have to wash the box.

A friend of mine use a light petroleum derivate (I don't remember which one) and he says it works perfectly.

2nd Dec 2012 09:31 UTCJosé Antonio Soldevilla Gonzalez

Try with a fly killer spray. It is a incredible solvent for price labels...I feel that for mineral labels too ;-)

2nd Dec 2012 14:20 UTCHarold Moritz 🌟 Expert

I cant attest to the other methods, they sound good, but I've been using hexane. Dissolves it instantly, leaves the surface sooooper clean and dries right up. Not easy to get, mine was surplussed from a lab I used to contract with.

16th Feb 2013 21:21 UTCChristopher Spratt

Vegetable oils also work.

18th Feb 2013 14:22 UTCReiner Mielke Expert

A vegetable oil is probably the best thing just from a health point of view. Who knows what the long term effects of petroleum based solvents will have, most are carcinogenic.

18th Feb 2013 15:28 UTCReiner Mielke Expert

Just thought you might like to know:

18th Feb 2013 16:20 UTCDonald Peck

I agree that using "non-toxic" (there is no such thing) products is better than using more toxic ones. But one has to keep in mind the dose. Those women in China were exposed to large amounts of hexane for long periods of time. Removing a few labels from plastic boxes is not the same. However, I still would not use the hexane, nor benzene if I could get it, nor gasoline, given better alternatives. The axiom for the toxicologist is that "The dose makes the poison".

18th Feb 2013 17:35 UTCJame A. Riley

I've been a collector all my life as well as an arts professional and have encountered many issues with old labels, tape, stickers, prices, grease pencil, etc. The BEST thing I have found in doing all this for 35 years is Bestine Rubber Cement thinner. Available at any art supply store & most craft stores. Not sure of its chemistry, but fairly benign with a high volatility so it is gone very quickly. Have never seen any ill effects from it. Many other solvents can damage older acrylic boxes & stands by reacting with the plastic and clouding them or etching them. I've never had that problem with this.

Also a good solvent for magic marker, grease pencil, years of dirt & grunge build-up. Just a bit on a soft paper towel. Once clear, it is gone and no residue. I've used it to remove sale tags & 30-yr old scotch tape residue. I've found it safe enough to use on almost anything and will not hesitate to try it on the dust jacket of a $1000 book, a 70-yr old vintage comic, any vintage packaging, and plastics are a piece of cake. I've even used it on the actual crystals & fossils themselves (always test first, just in case you find a rare item that might be affected.

18th Feb 2013 17:47 UTCMaggie Wilson Expert

http://papercement.com/msds_bestine.pdf

MSDS for Bestine thinner attached... for inquiring minds

27th May 2013 22:45 UTCMarcus Lieberman

I have also used GooGone with total satisfaction.

27th May 2013 22:49 UTCMarcus Lieberman

I use GooGone with total satisfaction with acrylic boxes.

21st Jul 2014 11:00 UTCLibby

Absolutely brilliant advice on using extra virgin olive oil. using it to remove the graphic which has transferred from an old lightbox onto the perspex - thanks so much!

23rd Dec 2014 16:58 UTCsaaf

fly killer spray does not work

Mindat.org is an outreach project of the Hudson Institute of Mineralogy, a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit organization.
Copyright © mindat.org and the Hudson Institute of Mineralogy 1993-2024, except where stated. Most political location boundaries are © OpenStreetMap contributors. Mindat.org relies on the contributions of thousands of members and supporters. Founded in 2000 by Jolyon Ralph.
Privacy Policy - Terms & Conditions - Contact Us / DMCA issues - Report a bug/vulnerability Current server date and time: April 20, 2024 03:03:53

Go to top of page