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Field CollectingApproaches to mounting specimens

1st May 2018 19:36 UTCHiro Inukai

First of all I hope I'm posting in the right forum; if not, please let me know.

For thumbnail or miniature sized specimens, I've found that moldable thermoplastics can work really well for mounting and presentation, although using it takes a lot of practice and can be labor intensive.

Here's an example:

I wanted to mount this piece at an angle in the box, but I didn't like the idea of wedging it in styrofoam--it's not as clean of a look (not to mention I couldn't actually find suitable styrofoam for this purpose). So I used a product called InstaMorph (but there are other brands with similar products), which comes in pellet form--I happened to have it already as I had bought some a while ago for a different purpose. You put the pellets in hot water and they become pliable enough to work with. When soft, I carefully press the specimen into a wad of the plastic and hold it steady until it cools enough to hold its shape. When fully cooled, thin pieces can be cut or shaved down with an X-Acto knife. This stuff gives me a lot more control over the placement of the specimen in the box, and can do things Styrofoam can't. Also, it won't stick to the specimen unless excessively hot (let it cool a bit before pressing anything into it). And unlike mineral tack, it doesn't leave a residue. I wouldn't use it for micromounts or cabinet sized specimens, or anything super fragile.

Frequently, I find that the specimen won't need mineral tack or adhesive to sit in the plastic on its own, but it isn't actually attached or locked in place unless you do glue it down. I do use glue dots or putty to attach the plastic base to the box. Personally, I find the process therapeutic...mounting specimens is very satisfying to me for some reason, so I don't mind taking the time to make custom display bases for each one.

1st May 2018 19:54 UTCWayne Corwin

Hiro

I would guess these melt again if exposed to warm temps?

Like in a sunny window or in a hot car?

Where are your lables for the specimens?

1st May 2018 21:22 UTCHiro Inukai

The temperature at which the plastic softens is 66 C or 150 F, so I feel reasonably assured that I'm not going to expose my specimens to these temperatures for a sustained amount of time. I'm not sure I would want to leave any specimens exposed to sunny windows or hot cars, in any case!

As for labels...that's my next project, I promise! I'm trying to decide how best to go about it. I read the thread about "lifesaver" labels but some of my samples would really have their aesthetics diminished by a directly affixed label that is large enough to be legible.

2nd May 2018 02:45 UTCKeith Compton 🌟 Manager

Hiro

Many museums have problems with artifacts for various reasons and attach a label via a small thread (silk or the like) so that only the silk thread is glued to the specimen and the label itself is of course at the other end of the thread and placed underneath the specimen. In your case a tiny thread may be visible (like a tail) from the specimen to the underside.

I doubt if much would then be seen when on display so there would be little to dsitract from the aesthetics. In your case the label would be underneath the white base within the box and only a small "line' which could be the same colour as the white base would show. You could even place a small "groove" in the white base behind the specimen to further "hide" the thread.

I would then attached a separate printed label to the underside of the of the display box itself and place a similar label on the back of the display box - visible from the front.. And of course photograph the specimen, upload to Mindat thus creating a minID, and have a further "lifesaver".

Cheers

2nd May 2018 06:02 UTCJim Allen

Great looking specimen displays, Hiro. Nice work.

Jim

2nd May 2018 13:40 UTCRolf Luetcke Expert

Hiro,

Seems each specimen has its own box, labels can be put under the box either glue or using labels with self stick on one side. In my case I never have anything on my specimens since most are thumbnail or micro, no room for labels or number there but all my boxes have labels on them. Switching lids won't mess things up that way either since the specimen is on the bottom of the box.

Nice display was also my view.

Rolf

2nd May 2018 15:48 UTCDonald B Peck Expert

Hiro,

I am a micro collector who apprecieates thumbnails. On a slightly larger scale, you are facing the same problems that "micromounter" face. I am going to differ a bit from the others. I think your use of the thermoplastic is innovative, interesting, and useful. And you mentioned that the specimen is loose in the plastic mount unless you glue it in.

If I were you, I would glue it in place with white glue. It is water soluble, so your specimen is easily removed if or when you wish. I think you can better protect your specimen this way. I would also glue the plastic base to the bottom of the box. As to labels. I agree with you that it is difficult to glue a "fail safe" label on the specimen. Most thumbnail collectors that I know cut the label to fit upright in the back of the box (inside). That makes it easy to see and being inside the box, it is as fail safe as anything glued to the specimen. Unless your specimen is firmly fixed in the box, I would not put the label on the outside, bottom of the box.

Don

2nd May 2018 19:55 UTCRonald J. Pellar Expert

I am a T/N collector and use "Perky" boxes with the Styrofoam removed. I mount the specimen with white glue to a frosted plexiglass base that fits in the bottom of the "Perky" box. Th label is cut to fit into the back of the lid of "Perky" box and put in place with rubber cement (easily removed and replaced if needed).

Your idea of thermoplastic is a good one but a word of caution with some specimens that are temperature sensitive. I would also recommend along with others above that you use white glue to cement the specimen in the mount. Handling the boxes is a lot more secure that way, particularly if you put labels on the bottom. :-)

2nd May 2018 23:58 UTCKeith Compton 🌟 Manager

I agree that if you are using plastic boxes (particulalry thumbnail and micros, then the specimen should be "glued" in - by whatever means suits and try to ensure that the glue is not visible.

I then like to see a label on the underside of the box AND on the back of the lid. The one on the back of the lid is for easy identification and display purposes. The underside label is a neat way of ensuring that if the lid becomes separated from the specimen, there is still a label attached to the specimen.

Particularly so if removing a lid for viewing under a microscope.

3rd May 2018 22:12 UTCGary Weinstein

I think a great looking label would be the clear 'Avery' type self-adhesive laser printed plastic. The mineral name would "float" on the clear display box.

4th May 2018 14:25 UTCEd Clopton 🌟 Expert

Thanks for telling us about the thermoplastic material. I was not aware of it and might look into it. It's nice to learn about a really new idea now and then!

I would worry about legibility of transparent labels on transparent boxes with whatever is in the background showing through. Self-adhesive materials also tend not to be stable over time.

4th May 2018 14:49 UTCAndrew Debnam 🌟

Avery does make permanent clear labels.....I have never used them but may test the idea.

6th May 2018 11:33 UTCAlysson Rowan Expert

I label my permanent mounts (thumbs and micros) using a custom label size and format that I simply print on plain paper, hand cut and glue to the underside of the box. Permanent mounts - the label is glued using a smear of UHU, temporary mounts, the label is attached using mineral tack putty.

Using laser-printed labels allows me to protect them with a quick coat of polyurethane (water-based) varnish. Inkjet printed labels would need an oil-based varnish.

All of my specimens that are not glued into boxes have an ID number stuck to them (smallest readable type-size printed on plain paper, and punched out using a hole punch).

Doing this, and using the hand-molding thermoplastic, the ID number would be hidden where the specimen is pressed into the plastic.

6th May 2018 21:01 UTCHiro Inukai

Here are some better pictures of how I’ve used the thermoplastic to mount my thumbnails. I’m going to buy adhesive labels tomorrow as now I have some good ideas for labeling approaches, thanks to all of you!

11th May 2018 22:46 UTCHiro Inukai

More adventures in thermoplastic--I wasn't happy with white plastic on black foam, so I redid some of the mounts with pigmented black plastic. Here's my mounting of my collection of petroleum included quartz from Pakistan. One photo taken with white light, and the other with LUV illumination.

This raises an interesting question: if you have multiple specimens of a single type, as I do in this case, do you prefer to mount or present them together, or separately? For thumbnails and small specimens, that is my preference of course, but I think I would need to make an exception when the localities are different.

12th May 2018 04:56 UTCGregg Little 🌟

Hiro;

I have done several single crystal mounts in one box but I think it is just personal preference. I mounted several calcite crystal habits from different localities in one box that had fallen off larger matrix specimens and, because they were very good, I didn't want to throw them out; or was I just getting lazy?

12th May 2018 16:25 UTCGary Weinstein

Multiple mounts are great for tiny specimens (think gold crystals) where only one would get lost (visually) in the box.

12th May 2018 22:19 UTCJake Harper Expert

Wow. I really enjoy working with this stuff, Hiro. Thanks for sharing. Still working on building a form to create sharp 90 degree edges but even blocking up with flat surfaces can get decent results!

14th May 2018 04:10 UTCHiro Inukai

Jake, those are fantastic! It's interesting to see how you took a completely different approach to using the same material, and incorporated the label too. For me, I am using it primarily as a replacement for mineral tack, relying on it as an impression material to set specimens in the desired position. You've taken it and used it as the entire base, which I think is very clever.

One of the challenges with using thermoplastic it is that it has a very high viscosity even when pliable. The higher you heat it, the less viscous it gets, but then it's too hot to mold with your bare hands. Solid pieces like the sort you're working with retain their heat longer and set more slowly and evenly. I like the idea of using a mold or jig--I would recommend that you make it from a material that allows you to work with it while submerged in water, so that you just put the pellets in, let them soften, then squeeze the water out before demolding. This should prevent sticking.

Another idea is to work with flat sheets. Roll out flat sheets, let them cool, cut them with a knife and straightedge, and carefully melt the edges together to make a hollow box, but I'm not sure if that will be to your liking, and it may be too labor intensive compared to making solid blocks.

And that's a really lovely aquamarine specimen you've got there!

29th Nov 2018 22:47 UTCAndrew Debnam 🌟

Hi Hiro, I just picked up some of this material and I am experimenting with at present. Thanks again for the tip and I see this being helpful in several scenarios

Andrew

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