Log InRegister
Quick Links : The Mindat ManualThe Rock H. Currier Digital LibraryMindat Newsletter [Free Download]
Home PageAbout MindatThe Mindat ManualHistory of MindatCopyright StatusWho We AreContact UsAdvertise on Mindat
Donate to MindatCorporate SponsorshipSponsor a PageSponsored PagesMindat AdvertisersAdvertise on Mindat
Learning CenterWhat is a mineral?The most common minerals on earthInformation for EducatorsMindat ArticlesThe ElementsThe Rock H. Currier Digital LibraryGeologic Time
Minerals by PropertiesMinerals by ChemistryAdvanced Locality SearchRandom MineralRandom LocalitySearch by minIDLocalities Near MeSearch ArticlesSearch GlossaryMore Search Options
Search For:
Mineral Name:
Locality Name:
Keyword(s):
 
The Mindat ManualAdd a New PhotoRate PhotosLocality Edit ReportCoordinate Completion ReportAdd Glossary Item
Mining CompaniesStatisticsUsersMineral MuseumsClubs & OrganizationsMineral Shows & EventsThe Mindat DirectoryDevice SettingsThe Mineral Quiz
Photo SearchPhoto GalleriesSearch by ColorNew Photos TodayNew Photos YesterdayMembers' Photo GalleriesPast Photo of the Day GalleryPhotography

Techniques for CollectorsGlue

1st Nov 2015 20:42 UTCAntonio Nazario

What is the best type of to use to mount specimens and how glue do I use? Thanks.

1st Nov 2015 21:05 UTCRobert Rothenberg

Hi Tony,


Not sure about the best - many use Elmers white glue or Aileens (Eileens) white glue. Aileens is available at Walmart in the craft area; not sure where to get Elmers, but I'm sure it is readily available.


Bob

2nd Nov 2015 12:56 UTCJay I. G. Roland

Tony, if mounting specimens into acrylic boxes I personally would never use glue, I always use mineral tack which is far gentler on the specimen plus is easily removed whereas glue would likely require solvents and much effort with the risk of permanently damaging the specimen.


Regards,


Jay.

2nd Nov 2015 13:00 UTCEd Clopton 🌟 Expert

I used Elmer's for probably 98% of my micromounts, and still use it for thumbnails, because it is water-soluble to facilitate removal and remounting of the specimen myself or by a subsequent owner. In the US it is readily available wherever basic school & office supplies are sold: supermarkets, discount stores, office suppliers, etc.


Sometimes it is necessary to apply glue to the mounting pedestal and let it dry for a few minutes to become tacky enough to hold the specimen in place.


Mineral tack and other putties are great for temporary mounting--I use it all the time--but some harden and loose their grip and or stain surfaces they contact over long periods of time. Sometimes they are difficult to remove, even with solvents.


I experimented briefly with silicone adhesive, but it is harder to control and it evolves acetic acid as it cures, possibly damaging some minerals. It is also a lot harder to clean off of a specimen if accidentally smudged around or for remounting.

2nd Nov 2015 15:44 UTCAlfredo Petrov Manager

My experience has been the exact opposite of Jay's. Mounting with tack requires applying pressure to the stone, even if only a little bit, which made many a piece with friable matrix come apart. And forget about pushing something covered with acicular or hairy minerals down onto the tack. And limonitic or clay-rich or other earthy-type matrix tends not to stick to tack at all, even after applying pressure. I much rather use liquid glue. Acetone won't damage any inorganic minerals if you ever need to dissolve the glue again.

2nd Nov 2015 16:05 UTCReiner Mielke Expert

If the sample is not water soluble, for fragile minerals I use icing sugar ( make a thick glue with water) , it is very easy to remove and lasts forever ( as long as you keep the ants away).

2nd Nov 2015 16:32 UTCJay I. G. Roland

Alfredo, I do appreciate what you say but on the rare occasions where I have had to make a mount that had a very friable matrix I first stabalized the underside with watered down PVA glue, let that dry then mount with tack. I have used contact adhesive on the rare occasion when I have made a peg mount on the end of a cocktail stick but for mounting straight to the box mineral tack every time for me. Each to their own I suppose.

Reiner, I've never heard of anyone using icing sugar before but thinking about it, it probably makes much sense. However, would it adhere to the acrylic box sufficiently well to hold the mineral I wonder?


For what it's worth, I have in the past needed to re-mount several micros that had been set in hot glue and I can assure you that is not a task I would wish to go through again :-X


Regards,


Jay.

2nd Nov 2015 17:12 UTCReiner Mielke Expert

I use icing sugar on styrofoam which I always use in my boxes. However it should work on anything porous such as wood or paper.

2nd Nov 2015 17:22 UTCD. Peck

I like white glue (Elmers, Sobo, etc). It is easy to control, no stringers, virtually invisible when dry, and can be removed by soaking in water. I prefer the Sobo to Elmers, because it is a little more viscous, thus easier to orient the specimen on the peg. I heartily dislike mineral tack. It cannot be removed from a delicate specimen; I agree with Alfredo about attempting to mount fragile specimens, and while most of the tack can be removed from substantial pieces some is always left behind (often where it is visible). Also, at least some varieties of mineral tack dry out over time. I tried hot glue, and found that over time it tends to release its hold . . .and it produces stringers. Duco and similar cements also produce stringers that are a problem and removing the glue is difficult, even with acetone.

I will stick with white glue! (Sorry, I couldn't resist :-D )

2nd Nov 2015 21:34 UTCAlfredo Petrov Manager

I agree with Don about all the virtues of ordinary white glue, but there is one type of matrix where it is undesirable, namely anything containing unstable pyrite, marcasite, etc., which stains the "white" glue yellow after a few years, at which point it ceases to be invisible and becomes ugly. For those kinds of sulphide-bearing matrix, the "stringy" organic solvent-based glues are better, like Uhu.

5th Nov 2015 14:04 UTCEd Clopton 🌟 Expert

White glue also failed on the (apparently hygroscopic) matrix for my one crystal of sulphohalite: the matrix mineral absorbed the water from the glue, dissolved, and left a perpetually wet (and non-adhering) surface. That is my only TN "permanently" mounted with putty.

5th Nov 2015 19:54 UTCAlfredo Petrov Manager

Right, Ed. You'd definitely want to use the solvent-based glues (like UHU) for any water-soluble minerals. and damn the "strings".

5th Nov 2015 20:04 UTCReiner Mielke Expert

There are some minerals such as aluminite that I have not been able to glue down with anything. I finally had to soak it ( the bottom half) in clear non gloss acrylic paint before I could glue it down.
 
Mineral and/or Locality  
Mindat Discussions Facebook Logo Instagram Logo Discord Logo
Mindat.org is an outreach project of the Hudson Institute of Mineralogy, a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit organization.
Copyright © mindat.org and the Hudson Institute of Mineralogy 1993-2024, except where stated. Most political location boundaries are © OpenStreetMap contributors. Mindat.org relies on the contributions of thousands of members and supporters. Founded in 2000 by Jolyon Ralph.
Privacy Policy - Terms & Conditions - Contact Us / DMCA issues - Report a bug/vulnerability Current server date and time: April 26, 2024 15:02:56
Go to top of page