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Techniques for CollectorsUSB Microscope for ID?
24th Sep 2015 20:14 UTCDoug Schonewald
I am on a very limited budget (<$200) and need to purchase a microscope of some kind for ID purposes only. I do not expect to get good photos from anything of that quality. I have researched stereo microscopes and USB microscopes. It appears that finding a stereo microscope with any kind of camera in that price range is next to impossible (searched online and craigslist).
I am considering a USB microscope with a 5mp camera. It is in my price range, it will hook up to a laptop in the field, and might provide enough illumination and power to ID the very small minerals that I encounter every day. At the same time I don't wish to waste $100+ just to find out it is not even adequate.
Has anyone used these instruments, or is currently using one for this purpose? Have you found it OK for this explicit purpose?
Tim
24th Sep 2015 20:53 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
If you search the photography topic area you will find several informative threads on this very topic. To summarise, opinion is sharply divided :-) What is OK for you depends on what your needs and expectations are. Personally, I belong to the school that says you get what you pay for in this life - no free lunches. Good microscopy does not come cheap and - if the bug bites you - if you buy a cheap one you will only end up passing it on and buying a better one is a coupe of years or so.
That said, the only cheap model I know of that does quite a lot for the price is this one http://www.stuller.com/products/29-4740/?groupId=16916#pr-header-back-to-top-link . It's widely available from a range of reliable retailers in the US and elsewhere. To use a camera with it, either get a lightweight eye-piece camera or have a local machine shop, turn an eye-piece adapter for a consumer camera for you out of aluminium stock.
Start here and work out? http://www.mindat.org/mesg-13-357984.html
24th Sep 2015 22:47 UTCDoug Schonewald
24th Sep 2015 23:34 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
Your eyes are pretty darn smart. It you cannot resolve adequately features with a triplet x10 loupe, a microscope will not show you appreciably more until you get above x30 magnification. Don't forget good lighting. That and x10 loupe will show you more that a microscope with the wrong lighting. The built-in lighting with USB microscopes is very limiting. But only you know what it is you are trying to achieve.
25th Sep 2015 00:50 UTCDoug Schonewald
25th Sep 2015 05:21 UTCJoel Dyer
Are you sure you want to use a USB microscope? Any good enough, truly useful USB microscopes would probably cost over your budget limit. Also, zooming in / out and working with a USB microscope is a lot more difficult and limited compared to normal microscopes. Why not consider an affordable stereo microscope, perhaps even pre-owned one?
I got my first stereo microscope just a couple of years ago & had a very, very tight budget. Got a old russian MBS-9 scope, because a rock friend of mine couldn't use his anymore, due to eye problems. Now I have a better used scope (Jena, from DDR times...) thanks to a sponsor. Later on, I purchased a cheap USB microscope (can't afford a Dino-lite yet), but it's akward to use & I use it only on field trips.
Using a stereo microscope instead of a loupe or USB microscope opens up a totally different world! IT gives you 1) the possibility to view small crystals in a more 3D way and 2) gives you a far better working distance. I normally use 20x-32x magnification for small crystals, sometimes more for really difficult cases.
For instance, Gene from Mineralogical Research Company might be able to point you to an affordable new or pre-owned stereoscope. Also, you can get pretty good deals via Ebay.
As for connecting a camera to a microscope, you have much more possibilites with a stereoscope & I've made a couple of adaptors myself, using plastic, black thin cardboard etc. etc.
Also, you could ask around at schools, colleges and micromount societies: surely someone might be able to loan you or sell you a used microscope cheaply. Good luck with your searches!
25th Sep 2015 15:02 UTCReiner Mielke Expert
25th Sep 2015 15:25 UTCDoug Schonewald
A stereo microscope seems the way to go. Waiting and saving is the best option.
It never hurts to have a set of loops and a friend has already taken care of the 10x & 20x, but I still love the idea of having a field unit microscope.
Also I figured out the search feature (new to the site) so I can search prior to asking questions that have likely been asked many times before.
Tim
25th Sep 2015 16:01 UTCDavid Von Bargen Manager
25th Sep 2015 16:49 UTCDoug Schonewald
25th Sep 2015 17:38 UTCIlkka Mikkola
I have used succesfully 6x loop in the field. It has a good working distance and depth of field.
Ilkka
25th Sep 2015 18:01 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
-------------------------------------------------------
> Already I find the loops shaky and difficult to
> use in the field but they are much better than
> nothing. Setting up a portable table with a black
> cloth covering it has helped. I has allowed me to
> sort and eliminate most small items.
Forget x20 and x30 loupes. Stick with just a *good* x10 and learn how to make it dance for you. Max depth of field and min 'shake' effect. Think hunting. Don't try sighting if you are out of breath or your heart rate is raised. Rest your wrists on something immovable. Resting your forearms is better. Failing all else,at least keep your elbows clamped to your rib-cage. Using a loupe (or a microscope) to best effect is something to be learned by lots of practice.
As already said, seeing more clearly is to do with quality of optics and arrangement of lighting than it is higher magnification. Learn how to diffuse your light sources when examining any crystal with fracture surface lustre of vitreous of higher.
25th Sep 2015 18:07 UTCDoug Schonewald
25th Sep 2015 18:17 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
11th Oct 2015 00:15 UTCDonald Vaughn
12th Oct 2015 12:16 UTCGary Moldovany
13th Oct 2015 02:34 UTCDoug Daniels
13th Oct 2015 15:28 UTCD. Peck
13th Oct 2015 16:03 UTCTom Henderson
13th Oct 2015 16:47 UTCDoug Schonewald
I have found two microscopes that are in my price point. Both have 'boom arm' mounting systems. It appears to me that this would not be as stable as a regular stand. On the other hand it appears much more versatile than the typical standard stand. I would like to hear what others think about the type of mount that is most stable and useful. I don't want to purchase a boom stand and find out that the versatility is offset by excess movement and 'shakiness'.
13th Oct 2015 16:48 UTCDoug Schonewald
I have found two microscopes that are in my price point. Both have 'boom arm' mounting systems. It appears to me that this would not be as stable as a regular stand. On the other hand it appears much more versatile than the typical standard stand. I would like to hear what others think about the type of mount that is most stable and useful. I don't want to purchase a boom stand and find out that the versatility is offset by excess movement and 'shakiness'.
13th Oct 2015 16:50 UTCDoug Schonewald
I have found two microscopes that are in my price point. Both have 'boom arm' mounting systems. It appears to me that this would not be as stable as a regular stand. On the other hand it appears much more versatile than the typical standard stand. I would like to hear what others think about the type of mount that is most stable and useful. I don't want to purchase a boom stand and find out that the versatility is offset by excess movement and 'shakiness'.
14th Oct 2015 15:44 UTCD. Peck
10th Nov 2015 23:17 UTCcascaillou
pros:
-very cheap (250$)
-features a real darkfield
cons:
-the head cannot rise high enough to focus on the surface of any object exceeding 2cm in height (which is fine for faceted gems, but is a serious problem for larger rough or mineral specimens). That is the main concern about this scope.
-objective is 1x/3x (imho 2x/4x would have been better)
-darkfield halogen light bulb is only 10W which is weak (but one could try and improve things a bit by replacing it by a 20W bulb, I wouldn't try a 30W however as I'm not sure the scope internal parts would handle the heat)
-some internal parts are glued (not screwed) to the structure.
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Copyright © mindat.org and the Hudson Institute of Mineralogy 1993-2024, except where stated. Most political location boundaries are © OpenStreetMap contributors. Mindat.org relies on the contributions of thousands of members and supporters. Founded in 2000 by Jolyon Ralph.
Privacy Policy - Terms & Conditions - Contact Us / DMCA issues - Report a bug/vulnerability Current server date and time: April 26, 2024 13:50:42