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Techniques for CollectorsThinking of ways to clean a new find
7th Jul 2014 00:20 UTCRyan Allen
The pocket from the outside
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_100352_2_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_100250_3_bestshot.jpg
What was inside
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_102958_6_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_101843_3_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_101141_8_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_101110_6_bestshot.jpg
Here is a piece of the cap material both weathered side and freshly broken
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_130343_5_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_130306_7_bestshot.jpg
Now here is same piece under sw uv
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_130539_4_bestshot.jpg
now some extracted stuff under sw uv
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_130956_7_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_130640_3_bestshot.jpg
What would you guys suggest i clean it with? Super iron out? hydrochloric?
7th Jul 2014 02:55 UTCBob Harman
If you want to "clean" the material still in the ground in your first couple of pix, I think you had better extract a specimen first and also see if it is calcite as above.
Not sure what you want to accomplish or if I have been any help to you. CHEERS…..BOB
7th Jul 2014 03:01 UTCPhil M. Belley Expert
Sometimes clay/dirt gets stuck on calcite crystals. I have collected calcite specimens that could only be completely cleaned using an ultrasonic cleaner, which removed the very thin veneer of clay off the surface of the crystals. You could give that a try.
7th Jul 2014 05:20 UTCRyan Allen
-------------------------------------------------------
> So I am not exactly sure I understand what you
> want to "clean". If it is the "cap" example
> in your last several pix, I would NOT use Super
> Iron Out as it will both damage most calcites and,
> in any case, I don't see any significant iron
> staining. And I would also NOT use hydrochloric
> acid (muriatic acid) as it will promptly dissolve
> the calcite and most other carbonates as well. A
> strong stream of plain water seems good enough for
> this example.
> If you want to "clean" the material still in the
> ground in your first couple of pix, I think you
> had better extract a specimen first and also see
> if it is calcite as above.
>
> Not sure what you want to accomplish or if I have
> been any help to you. CHEERS…..BOB
Sorry BOB for not being crystal clear. The cap material was just to show how the weathered side looked much different from the freshly exposed material. Even under sw uv the weathered side was dull while the newly broken edge was quite bright. The 2 last pictures of the "extracted" material only lit up in places i had scrubbed and blasted with a pressure washer which ended up breaking the piece. I did not add a day light picture so here is what it looks like after ive used water...
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_203530_8_bestshot.jpg
That is my least favorite specimen so i have no troubles doing destructive testing to see what works....
These others im keeping till i can figure out what works
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_203422_3_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_203401_5_bestshot.jpg
Id love to try an ultra sonic cleaner but im in the middle of nowhere bc and it would be several weeks before i could get my hands on one.
Think im gonna try the acid next guys..... I will let you know how it works for me. I dont care if they come out smaller than when they went in as long as they take on a more crystal like look.
7th Jul 2014 06:04 UTCRock Currier Expert
7th Jul 2014 18:02 UTCD Mike Reinke
7th Jul 2014 21:43 UTCGary Moldovany
8th Jul 2014 04:50 UTCRyan Allen
Here are the 2 specimens selected for super iron out
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_151350_6_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_151512_3_bestshot.jpg
Here is what they look like after 1 hour in super iron out solution
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_154618_4_bestshot.jpg
After almost 2 hours i took them out and left them in a big tub of water for another hour to neutralize
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_172426_1_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_172327_3_bestshot.jpg
Now the muriatic acid:
before:
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_151930_5_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_151852_2_bestshot.jpg
After 30 min in
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_154601_4_bestshot.jpg
After 45 min i removed and this is how they looked:
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_160225_8_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_160141_4_bestshot.jpg
Then i decided to dunk my least favorite larger specimen pictured before into the acid. It only fit half way. Actually turned out ok and makes a great piece to show what a great job the acid did. This was soaked for a full 60 min.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_172715_4_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_172619_5_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140707_172536_5_bestshot.jpg
Now i must say it worked out but makes me question my ID.... There was almost no fizzle in either iron out or acid baths... I mean it bubbled a little bit when i first put it in but maybe 20 little bubble came off in total. Not the foaming fizzle i was expecting...
8th Jul 2014 05:01 UTCRyan Allen
-------------------------------------------------------
> Good luck! If possible,
> could you give us a general locality where your
> find is?
This is in the rocky mountain trench. North of the mica dam bc canada(headwaters of the columbia river). I was also in the help ID section trying to get some id on another specimen i found at the same location. May have some relevance here :
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140704_095807_1_bestshot.jpg
And at 10x
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20140706_165156_1_bestshot.jpg
9th Jul 2014 21:08 UTCRyan Allen
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140708_151424_4_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140708_151310_8_bestshot.jpg
9th Jul 2014 22:04 UTCKen Doxsee
9th Jul 2014 23:43 UTCWayne Corwin
First soak the rocks in water for a couple hrs,,,, before you soak them in acid or SIO, it
helps keep the acids out of the inside of the rocks, makes nuturalizing easier after.
After soaking in acid,, rinse the rock good under running water, then soak in fresh water
for 1/2 hr, change the water and add some baking soda, soak for a couple hrs, then change
the water again, let soak a few hrs more. Then rinse good under running water.
For SIO you can do the same thing, but leave out the baking soda.
10th Jul 2014 01:09 UTCRob Woodside 🌟 Manager
10th Jul 2014 02:51 UTCJoshua Frank
I am just a novice field collector and novice of cleaning specimens, so everyone can rebuke me if my advice is off base!.
In my humble opinion , you gotta rinse and saturate that specimen before you subject it to the bombardment of SIO or acid. I use distilled water...am I right forum? (tap water is full of minerals where I live, probably where you are too) and soak for at least 1 day. Then do your testing. After that, let sit, rinse, neutralize lightly repeatedly, and change water often. Clean the bucket or vessel every time. Where I am, its so dry sometimes, that if I use my well water the minerals in the water show up as specimens dry, or so I think. It may take longer than you think to neutralize the SOI or acid you have subjected the specimen too. Maybe you are already doing this.
Looks like you have some crystallized minerals in your specimens and that is awesome (that is my passion) apart from my career. I have ruined some perhaps "mediocre worthy field collected specimens" doing this. I prefer a slow approach at cleaning things I have found. Let the excitement of the find quiet down a bit. Wrap it up, put it away and take it out again just for a day or too. I find that when I look at it again, I am seeing it in a new way. Getting the ultrasound cleaner is also good advice. Excited to see you find stuff in any case!
Hope my experience helps or inspires you in some way,
Best,
Joshua
12th Jul 2014 19:01 UTCRyan Allen
I really should have presoaked in hindsight as im still getting yellow staining after 4 full days. Ive tried a soda water solution and a garden lime slurry to neutralize. What ever the green mineral is in these specimens it sure likes acid and even after a 24hr neutralization and another 48 hours rinse the yellow keeps on coming.
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140712_103911_2_bestshot.jpg
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/20140712_103839_8_bestshot.jpg
Distilled water might be the key but its painfully expensive here as i live in a very small remote mountain town (700ppl) with great water so the only distilled i can find is in 1 gallon jugs and its tourist priced as is the baking soda. The nearest wallmart is a full 5 hour drive return trip so i will have to add it too my list. All in all im very happy with my first acid experiments. After spending the last 5 years scrubbing and sandblasting specimens with limited success i can honestly say "muraitic acid baby...where have you been all my life"
12th Jul 2014 23:41 UTCBob Harman
Many specimens are beyond good cleaning and just look artificial after cleaning attempts. Many specimens grossly looking like they have been obviously cleaned up have then probably been over-cleaned and largely worthless for either display or money to most other collectors or exhibitors.
The trick in cleaning up most worthwhile specimens is to make them look fresh and bright, but NOT cleaned or otherwise tampered with. From your pictures, yours just look overcleaned and artificially tampered with. NOT A GOOD RESULT IN MY BOOK AS LESS CLEANING AND PROPER CLEANING IS BETTER. Also, don't try to clean or expect too much from lo end specimens as they will never look much better….just tampered with. Acid…..neutralizing followed by acid …..neutralizing etc etc is just tampering with the specimens and NOT improving them in my book CHEERS……BOB
13th Jul 2014 08:34 UTCRyan Allen
Well on that note these minerals did not come out like i had hoped but the acid sure made some awesome (to me) specimens for my sw UV display.
13th Jul 2014 17:42 UTCRob Woodside 🌟 Manager
13th Jul 2014 20:39 UTCBob Harman
Any field collector…..and I have been one for over 20 years now…. over time and experience develops a philosophy of what he or she expects from their final cleaned and prepared mineral specimens……especially if they are to become displayable or of the quality to keep and show off to other collectors. Then there will become a realistic preparation plan for each collected specimen. This plan, in my opinion, should be individualized to each example and have realistic expectations that some examples will clean up really well and others just will never look so good. In my opinion, the final prepared specimen should not IMMEDIATELY look cleaned or otherwise tampered with when first viewed. It should look natural, fresh, bright and esthetically pleasing. Ideally, the viewer should have to ask you what was done to the specimen after it was collected to make it into its final condition. If the viewer immediately sees an example that has obviously been cleaned or otherwise treated, then, in my opinion, that is a negative first impression. In other words LESS IS BETTER.
So I will leave it at that. Good luck to you in your field collecting and learning experience of preparing your specimens. BTW, I believe you collected in Western Canada??……well if that is correct, when I lived in Spokane, Washington in the 1970s, I collected several times in the Nelson and Trail areas of SE British Colombia. CHEERS…….BOB
13th Jul 2014 21:15 UTCRyan Allen
13th Jul 2014 23:46 UTCAlex Earl 🌟 Expert
14th Jul 2014 06:26 UTCRyan Allen
14th Jul 2014 17:40 UTCRob Woodside 🌟 Manager
Since at least the 70's mineral collectors have been moving to prettier and more aesthetic crystallised specimens and tend to make the assumption that is the only thing anyone should want and any interest in cleaning is an attempt to produce such. Hence the caveat to try a cleaning technique on something you don't mind losing before trying it on something you hope will turn out to be great. While it is difficult to collect a rare killer specimen which most collectors assume to be the goal, your chances are greatly improved by collecting localities known to have produced them. Your desire to collect off the beaten path indicates to me that you have as much fun looking as you do finding. I'm sure like all of us you'd love to find gorgeous specimens, but that is not your primary goal and there's nothing wrong with that. Attitudes change with time and experience, but that is irrelevant. The point is to learn about the world and have fun doing it. That is what you seem to be doing. Keep it up!!!
14th Jul 2014 22:44 UTCAlex Earl 🌟 Expert
Best regards, Alex
15th Jul 2014 02:04 UTCRyan Allen
Thank you for your good wishes and your help.
Ryan
15th Jul 2014 02:13 UTCRyan Allen
Good luck in your future adventures!
8th Feb 2015 16:21 UTCTim Jokela Jr
Personally, I'd cease worrying about cleaning the stuff. You need to camp at the site and get the thing opened up.
Maybe some nice beryl, or tourmaline, or at least some smoky quartz, but you have to dig it out asap.
Don't pack any more stuff out until you know what's good, and don't do anything else until it's cleaned out.
Pay attention to the small stuff, too. Start using a low-power binocular microscope. You'll find that a single nice little TN of bertandite, phenakite, helvite, or rare earth will be worth far more than five tons of unsalable feldspar.
Have fun, play safe, and please keep us posted!!!
8th Feb 2015 18:15 UTCOlivier Langelier
it seeps into cracks and leaves yellow iron oxyde stains that just wont wash away
31st Mar 2015 00:07 UTCReiner Mielke Expert
To me it looks like what you have are feldspar crystals not calcite ( a simple hardness test or acid will tell). Often they cannot be cleaned because the rust is embedded in the surface and protected from the chemicals. When you use acid or iron out often rust will reform when you dry the sample especially with acid even if you neutralize the acid. The only way that I know how to prevent the rust from reforming is to soak the sample in pure methyl hydrate for a while ( as a final stage after water) before you let it dry. The alcohol absorbs all the water and rust cannot form without water. Before cleaning your samples I would examine them under a microscope. When dealing with weathered specimens, sometimes the rare secondary minerals look like nothing special until you get them under the scope. Of course if you are not interested in micro material then don't worry about it. Best of luck.
31st Mar 2015 07:17 UTCRyan Allen
Thanks and please overlook any spelling and grammar issues here as im trying to write this on my cell phone.
Ryan
8th Apr 2015 22:20 UTCJohn Oostenryk
You are finding some cool stuff~ not TOP- but I'd bring it home for sure if I had the transport.
Stuff only gets left behind when its overweight => nonportability;)-
Your processing is going ok- research and questions aside, you have to learn by experience at some point- which is what I see in the portion I read. Carry on!
As to HCl and permeability/neutralization... If you think you have soaked and resoaked(change the water a couple times- with aprox 5:1 greater vol of water than the object. If then as drying- you see that yellow? back into the water... I get that when etching calcite and dolomite off of barites in geodes. Basically the qtz/chalcedony is like a sponge(porous) and it takes time to get that back out of those micro spaces.
The weathered/fluid etched materials you are cleaning have that micro porous surface/structure too(to a degree) so will slowly bleed out the introduced fluid(hcl). No worry, just takes time.
Personally, teh stuff cleaned up nice for what it is. So it is not shiny per se, but it IS clean. Cool! I liked teh lil epidotes on the one piece(if that is what they are~) :)
Anyhoo-
Look forward to hearing more on your situ. Maybe drop me a PM when ya post-I'm an irregular viewer, lol.
Rock On as the opportunity presents!
Good luck on the specimen hunting and the morels too:)
Best Regards,
~JO:)
22nd Apr 2015 20:03 UTCRyan Allen
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_114533.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_114533.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150420_180318.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150420_180318.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150413_135752.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150413_135752.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150413_135508.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150413_135508.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
The first thing i noticed about my main xtl area is the large cap i had loosened the year before had fallen revealing the largest xtls i have seen of this type but alas they are pretty badly weathered.
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150420_180224.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150420_180224.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150420_180440.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150420_180440.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150420_180519.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150420_180519.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
The area is much larger than i thought. It consists of the weathered portion which is where i directed most of my attention this trip and the solid plate cover which is about 3-4X the size of the weathered stuff. The solid cap has only a few holes and is dense green followed my this super hard cap material totaling over 15 inches thick. Was almost too much for my 6lb hammer. To my amazement a larger hole in the solid plate side showed that there are multiple layers of xtls up to six feet down from the weathered stuff ive been working on. It suddenly dawned on me that this is going to be a long term project. With simple hand tools it will be several seasons before i find out whats deeper down the rabbit hole:-) I found a layer that looks like black/brown sand thats been roasted together about 2inchs thick. It contains tiny gemmy well formed green xtls but you will have to wait till i can get another 10X loop for the pics. Anyway here is some pics and couple short vids of what i was up too.
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_114810.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_114810.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_121400.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_121400.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_122342.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_122342.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_124232.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_124232.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_124241.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_124241.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_125017.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_125017.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s864.photobucket.com/user/billycap4u/media/The%20Lake/20150421_125024.jpg.html][IMG]http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150421_125024.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
http://vid864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150420_181526.mp4
http://vid864.photobucket.com/albums/ab209/billycap4u/The%20Lake/20150420_182328.mp4
25th Apr 2015 09:14 UTCRock Currier Expert
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Copyright © mindat.org and the Hudson Institute of Mineralogy 1993-2024, except where stated. Most political location boundaries are © OpenStreetMap contributors. Mindat.org relies on the contributions of thousands of members and supporters. Founded in 2000 by Jolyon Ralph.
Privacy Policy - Terms & Conditions - Contact Us / DMCA issues - Report a bug/vulnerability Current server date and time: April 27, 2024 03:22:25